Doc Ott's Homemade Huaraches
Cool looking. Run-worthy. ~$5 in materials. ~30 minutes in labor.

Updated 13Oct12

    In late 2011, I decided to think about moving into the minimalist world, and even bought pair of vibrams to run in. As I began to think of the purity of minimalist running, I decided I wanted to go more hippy (cheap?) and so I started researching homemade sandals good enough for running. Huaraches were the cool new thing out there so I did some research on the web and found some good sites that helped, but they still had two big problems

Problem 1: Cost  
The rubber sole is still costing you at least $25. I am trying to do this on the cheap

Problem 2: One Toe Strap  
When I strung the laces going through only one toe gap (big toe and #2) it hurt even when walking and was un-runnable. Another solution I found was lacing them such that no toe gaps were laced, and while this was more comfy when walking, It was impossible to run in them unless they were tightened A LOT. Additionally I didn't want my straps wrapping up my lower leg. There are actually a lot of different ways to tie them, but my problems still exist with 1 or no toe sraps.

My sandals solved both problems.

Materials needed:
- Recycled rubber doormat ~1/4" thick ($6-10 at big box hardware store, but enough to make several pairs of sandals)
- Marker for outlines and hole marking
- Scissors for cutting doormat
- Shoelace >60" ($2-4) If you are not 'protecting' it (see below) you will want to use a leather shoelace which will last you several months.
- Hole punch

Optional materials for longer lifetime:
- Rubber bicycle intertube (hardware store)
- Gorilla tape (hardware store)

Step 1: Trace Feet
Stand on the doormat and press down with normal amount of pressure (such that your foot 'splays out') and trace a line ~1/4" outside the outermost edge of your foot. Then carefully cut the outline.

     

Step 2: Marking Holes
While standing on the cutout, mark the 6 holes needed. See the below pictures as references. The between-toe holes should be all the way at the 'back' or it will never be tight.

Hole 1: 1/2" from edge, directly below outer part of the ankle bone
Hole 2: 1/2" from edge, directly below inner part of ankle bone
Hole 3: Between Big toe and toe #2 at the farthest back of the junction
Hole 4: just like hole 3, only betweentoes #4 and #5
Hole 5: Find the widest most point of your inner forefoot. Hole 5 (also 1/2" from edge) is also 1/4" behind that widest spot. there is a bone there and you need to be behind it.
Hole 6 Like hole 5, 1/'2" behind the bone that is the widest part of your forefoot and 1/4" from edge.

Once the holes are marked, use the hole punch to make spots for the laces.

        

Step 3: Lacing

Side view of a finished sandal:

Done! The saandals do not need to be re-tied everytime you want to put them on. I tie them tight (once) and then slip my foot while holding down the back part, then just slip it up when my foot is planted correctly.

Step 4: Long life sandals (optional)
The laces will loosen up a little as you wear them and also, the lace that is 'exposed' on the bottom side will slowly deterioriate from normal wear. I have come up with a solution that fixes that problem too. What we need is a proetctive cover protecting that exposed lace but allows the lace to still move when we want to tighten the lace later.

I also made a paid out of steel belted tires. While you have to be very careful about trimming the steel cables stickibng out the edge, it can be done. To increase the lifetime, I put short section of plastic tube in each hole and sealed with shoo-goo. These should last (essentially) forever and are just as comfortable as any other sandal I own. :)